Africa - September 2011

Oct 1 - Sat - Cloudy, rained overnight

We were awoken with our usual 5:30 wake up call and headed out again at 6am. Two of our jeep partners decided to sleep in and the other 2 stayed only long enough to drive by the kill site. No easy way to get to the lions since the fields were too wet to drive on as they don't want to damage the brush. We did see a pack of 5 more hyena though on the way as well as vultures circling above.

After dropping off the 2 guys we had the jeep, our Ranger and Tracker to ourselves. We drove for about 1 hr seeing zebras, waterbuck, kudu and,of course, impala. The rain kept a lot of animals hidden,but then out of the corner of our eyes, we spotted what looked like a leopard but was a cheetah! It is extremely rare to see leopards and even more rare to see Cheetah since there are only 200 left in the entire park. We were able to get some good shots before he headed off through the brush. We were so lucky as we were the only one of the 18 guests to see a Cheetah and Leopard.

On our way back towards Tinga, we saw another troop of baboons on the side of the road with lots of babies on backs and clinging to bellies. We also saw a fish eagle and large owl. We didn't see any elephants today even though we saw lots of tracks. It was truly a great last game drive though having seen the Cheetah.

Raymond is a treasure trove of knowledge. He pointed out an Appletree and took one of it's leaves and crunched it in his hand demonstrating how it got it's name. It sounded just like the noise of biting into an apple. Then he showed how, as a child, whose mother always had him brush his teeth, he was able to make a toothbrush, instead of buying one, by cutting off a branch, peeling the bark from the ends for about an inch, then squashing those ends and wetting them until they fanned out and formed a brush. One twig thus was good for two uses at least. By the way, he had beautiful teeth.

Back in time for a great breakfast with our tablemates and then off to shower and get ready for the long flights home.

One last look at the immense Jackleberry tree on the front veranda. The berries fell continuously, 1/2" in diameter, and edible. Of course Mike had to peel one and eat it. He said it had a fig-like taste. It also has two big pits, bean size, which you have to spit out. Many birds, and especially the Civit a small catlike animal, love it. The Civit likes it as he is able to leave his dung, which is full of the seeds, for bugs and insects to munch on and thus he can return, eat his own dung and get a full meal of those bugs. Yummy!

On the ride to and from Mpumalanga airport the roads at time were lined with Jacaranda trees with briliant dark pink and red flowers, almost too bright for the eye to stare at.

We arrived at 1:30 and checkin went quick with our bags checked through to Dulles. We'll decide after we clear customs if we carry them on or check them again to DFW. The flight to JNB was just 25 minutes and by 6pm we were ready for some dinner (we won't eat on the plane before arriving at Dakar in about 8 hours). By 6:45 we were at the gate waiting for our 9:30 departure. Just 26:15 hours from now we'll be home (or at least DFW). Since we got up at 5:30am (that's 10:30pm Plano time), we'll have been up, and mostly awake, 40+ hours. Such is the price to pay for a lifetime of great memories.

This was truly an unforgettable experience and the Tinga lodge and staff were wonderful. We will definitely return again some day.

Sept 30 - Fri - Cloudy morning, Sunny afternoon

The wakeup today was very early, 5am, because we were off to the flatter open areas where giraffe would be found. After a quick coffee and juice we were off at 5:40.

First stop was the 'bamba', Zulu for 'kill', meaning the Cape Bufallo carcass.

The lions were still there, but only the head and upper torso of the bufallo was left, with bones starting to show on the rest of the carcass.

But another addition to the scavenger population was a lone Hyena, but there would be more later as word spread, as well as the aroma of rotting flesh, that there was meat available.

We stayed a while and then headed off. While it was cloudy, and when driving the wind in your face was cool to cold, each of us had in a console between us with a warm, blanket type poncho with a hood that you could slip over your head. It hung on you and left your hands free. We kept them on until about 10:00 when the air warmed up. The sun broke through and the clouds cleared about 11:00.

Then another surprise find. As we're driving a Leopard is spotted lounging in a roadside tree, leg and tail hanging down. As peaceful a pose as can be. This was a great find as leopards are rare in the park and very rare to see, especially up a tree. Even Raymond was excited too and took pictures too.

More driving and then Giraffe. Lots. Regal creatures, stately as they walk eating leaves from the treetops.

More driving and then, mixed in with the Giraffe, are lots of Burchell's Zebras.

A short while later, baboons. A large troop of about 50. Babies all over many of the females, clinging under their bellies or riding their backs, and the older babies just running alongside.

We also encountered Warthogs, Kudu, Nyala, Hornbills, Starlings ( a bird with brillant irridescent blue feathers), and a host of other birds.

We made our breakfast break at a park rest stop overlook with bathrooms and services. The stop overlooked the Mlondozi Dam, and the lake behind it. there were avbout 30 hippos in the lake. We were about 1000 ft high overlooking the lake.

There were some other campers in the rest area and we spent some time talking to a fellow from Swaziland, who gave some advice on renting lodge rooms and getting around the park on your own.

Back at 11:45, after a six hour game drive. Lunch was another delicious meal at 12:30 and we had about 2 hrs to relax on our deck before heading out for the afternoon game drive at 4pm.

All 3 jeeps headed to the lion kill site. But this afternoon the lions had moved the carcass further into the brush, under a dense tree, to better hide it. This was obvious to Raymond as the tree above was full of vultures, at least 15 of them, with more in the nearby tree. All that was left was the head area. We had a hard a time finding them since they had moved further into the bush. we were also surrounded by a herd of at least 150 Cape Buffalo heading toward the smell of their dead brother. Some members of the group wanted to see another kill. Raymond said a that even though the lions were full from eating they never turn down an opportunity if prey is available. We all waited around for about 25 minutes to see if the lions would attempt another kill but they didn't. It was amazing how close to our suite the lions actually were.

We were in suite 2, the next the last suite furthest from lodge. The lions had drug the carcass about 150 ft from suite 1!

In addition to the Cape Buffalo surrounding us, there were a pack of 3 hyena ready to steal the carcass. They surrounded the jeeps and made their way toward the lions. We didn't hear or see any fights so left for more action.

We saw lots of zebras, giraffes and a few warthogs and came upon a young mother elephant with 2 babies. One was about 5 yrs old and another 2 yrs. She was also pregnant with another. They were right next to the road, stripping bark from a tree. Raymond said they eat 24 hrs a day, and sleep standing up for short periods. They do not digest their food, so need to eat continuously.
The 5 yr old was annoyed with his mother at something and "yelled" at her. As we made our way closer, the mother elephant was not happy that we were getting close to her baby and started making noises and ear flapping in an attempt to warn us we were getting to close. Raymond said that elephants are very dangerous and can turn the jeep over easily. They are more dangerous than lions. However, the biggest killer and most dangerous is the hippo. You never want to get between a hippo and water.

After our last sundowner stop, we went by the lion kill site on the way back to the lodge and saw a pack of 5 hyneas ready to steal the remains of the carcass.
The folks in suite 1 had 2 hyneas greet them at their door! You never walk alone at night to your suite and luckily their assistant was able to chase them off. A pretty scary encounter for them.

Dinner was on the patio under gas lamp and another white tablecloth event. We all had selected the Ostrich steak from the menu, another deliciious choice. We had all tried it in Cape Town and agreed it was very good and wanted one last chance to eat it.

Back to the room at 9:30 to pack so we'd be all set for our last morning's game drive.

(Continuation of Sept 29, afternoon)

We spent the next 3 1/2 hours after lunch at our pool. Skinny dipping (for Mike) as the only creatures that can see you are four legged. After a while though Mike went back to the main building to get on the Internet and update our blog.

Lunch was served at 12:30, but we passed. After all, we just finished breakfast. But they did have at least 12 lodge guests who hadn't yet had enough to eat (remember that they serve snacks right before leaving on the afternoon game drive, and again drinks and snacks about 5 while on the drive, just as the sun starts going down. Which is why they're referred to as Sundowners.

Mike worked on the blog and managed to get everyone up to date and even included a gruesome picture of a lion eating a Cape buffalo in a separate e-mail.

On the way back to the room there were three Vervet Monkeys playing on the walkway. We both went out to see them. While two kept to the trees, sometimes jumping on the path rails, one kept following us. Though not thieves like the baboons it still looked to us as he liked the camera and might want it.

At 3:30 we went out for the pre-drive snacks and at 4:00 loaded up. First stop - to see the lions with their kill, the buffalo. On the way there we could see the vultures already gathering. At least 15 of them in the treetops.

The lions had dragged the carcass out of sight of the road and into the brush to hide it, at least 30 feet away. They were relaxing from a full meal and panting from their full bellies and the heat. Raymond said they would stay with the kill until they had eaten all of it. Could take up to a week to finish it off.

As of today we have now seen 'the big five'. Lion, Cape Buffalo, Leopard, Rhinocerous and Elephant.

Game drives are interesting in that you are driving along dirt roads, with no street signs, looking for animals that blend in easily with the vegetation, many times Raymond and Amoun will stop and get out to look in the sand for tracks and when found, and they circle them for us, determine the direction and head off that way.

Impala are seen on every drive, given that there are close to 100,000 in the park that is not surprising. At some point it is almost a non-event, though to be sure they are still interesting to see.

We saw more elephant, and more dung. Raymond comes from a village that speaks Shagaan. He tells us that they, and others, take very dry elephant dung and burn it, breathing in the smoke as a way to ward off various ailments. More on his medicine later.

We also see more Rhinos, many more and a bit closer to the road. It is amazing just how big these guys are, like tanks, just lumbering along as they graze.

Then a first, Warthogs, with a mom and her babies. Warthogs may not be the most glamorous creatures, but the babies, as all animal young, look cute.

Along the river we spot a Crocodile, and as we drive we see some Duikers and of course more Impala.

About five, as the sun started setting, we made our Sundowners stop. Some wine, delicious snacks, chips, nuts, etc., and an interesting talk with Raymond about his life and that of the people of his village. About 30 minutes later we were off.

We were passing a burn area, where park management intentionally burns the ground shrub for control as well as to encourage new growth, and on the dark ground sits a Leopard, yellow colored with black spots, who, until we arrived, was sublimely resting.

He stayed still long enough to get some good pictures, but then rose and sauntered off. But, at least we saw our first leopard.

before returning for dinner we made another stop at the lion kill. Now, in addition to all the vultures, were two Hyenas. This was really good timing. They even obliged my camera by moving into better positions. They're beautiful creatures, though ugly just the same.

Then we were back for dinner, about 7:45.

Dinner tonight is different. Instead of a sit down on the patio we are led to a 'Boma', a typical African outdoor eating area, surrounded by wooden stakes which in the bush would serve to keep the.lions, leopards and other predators out.

Besides the usual drinks and liquors are a choice, or both, of soup and salads and slaws, then followed by a choice, or all, of barbecued ox tail, chicken, lamb, and a typical sausage. All that finished off with dessert.

Tomorrow's morning drive will be long as we are going to areas of the park a distance from camp, so wakeup is 5am. So we call it a day. Back to the room, shower up, and lights out at 9:15.

Sep 29 - Thurs - Cloudy morning but by 8:30 Sunny and warm, at 1 it was 90.

Up at 5:30. and out at 5:55. I told Karen she'd never have an excuse for needing lots of time to get ready to go out when we got home.

A quick drink of coffee or tea and juice and we were off just after 6.

Not 10 minutes into the drive we see what Raymond says he sometimes doesn't see for months. About two hours ago three lions chased, caught and killed a Cape Buffalo. It's lying ten feet off the road. The lions are lying nearby. Without being too graphic, his backside is torn away, his tail lies on the ground, his belly is ripped open and entrails lying out, and the nearest lion has a blood red face and is licking his paw, which is also bloody. Shortly thereafter he gets up, heads back to the buffalo, and resumes eating, at one point his whole head disappeaing into the carcass of the buffalo. Calls to the other Rovers soon had them converging on the spot. What a way to start the day. We continued to have good luck on sightings.

Lots of Impala. Then a male elephant, no more than 20 feet away but who, at times, appeared to stare at us looking like he might move towards us at any moment.

Then white rhinocerous, (though white is a corruption of wide, describing his mouth versus the black's more pointy one). Then more buffalo.Then hippopotamus.

Before the Hippo though we stop for a morning break. Coffe, Tea, juices, cakes, and other treats. Twenty minutes later it's hippo time.

The hippo are in the river. We will exit the Rover and walk down to the river. But these guys are dangerous, and fast. So our marching orders (sorry) are, single file and stay behind the lead guy with the gun. You do not want to be between the gun and a hippo.

Tons of Hippos. There were about 25 of them. Big ones, little ones and your average 2 tonner. The largest male, upon seeing us on shore start shaking his body and tail and frothing up the water while he walks in a circle. His way of telling us he's there, not happy about us being here, and warning us not to take him lightly.

Off again and Raynond has to slow down as we see an elephant in our way. Not just one, because as we watch him slowly crossing the road the pace picks up and three more follow behind, then two babies, then three more. Once we're sure they've all passed, they're on their way down to the river, then we can start up. We don't want to be in the way of an elephant trying to keep up with the group.

Then we see Baboons all walking up the road ahead of us and then a mother crossing the road with her baby clinging tightly to her underbelly. He alternately drops off, eats, hop on top of her, then off, until she finally wanders off and he takes the hint and gets on her again. There were at least 15 of them.

Of course, everywhere we went were the Impala. There was the occaisional Kudu, Nyala and assorted Hornbills (who love eating dung and who we saw sharing it with a mate), but the Impala are everywhere. They are the most hunted prey, but also more like a snack.

Raymond told a cute story. The rear ends of the Impala have black stripes that run up and down and for a close likeness to the letter M. That is advertising for lions, leopards and others that hunt them, telling them THIS is your McDonald's.

Today's drive ended at 9:45.

A quick hand wash (they do meet you as you get off the Rover with scented and damp hand towels too), then the breakfast buffet. This includes the usual drinks, breads, toast, loads of fresh fruit, cheeses, lox, meats, yogurt, etc. You then order your eggs, any style, with bacon, mushrooms, onions, and tomatoes.

We finished breakfast and headed back to our room at 11.

We aren't going to eat lunch. Nor go to afternoon tea. No sense pigging out. Besides, we just want to relax, dip in our pool, catch up on this blog, try to get on the Internet, but generally rest (not that it's been a strenuous day anyway).

Sloth can be a delicious experience.

Just in case we have another connection problem we'll post today's activities as of 2pm (just continuing to lazy around waiting on the next game drive). We'll add to it either tonight or tomorrow (since by the time we get done this evening it might be too late to write up the day and post it).

Sep 28 - Wed - Sunny and 27C

To Tinga Private Game Lodge

Earlier wakeup at 6am. Breakfast at 7. Three vans for the airport transfer. Porters made it easier to get the luggage to check in, and our carry-ons came in just at the limit of 8Kg, and the main bags at 14Kg each.

The flight is full, a four engine Avro RJ85 (max 93 pax), but comfortable and normal seating, on Airlink, a sub of SAA and member of Star Alliance.

Once again SAA comes through. For this 2:20 duration flight they served lunch, choice of chicken or beef. Cold, in a sealed box with a pull tab, like a FedEx seal, small breast portion, salad, some type grain mix, and a raisin-nut bread but enough to last the flight.

Flight arrived on schedule. Mpumalanga airport is designd to look African. Baggage is offloaded by hand, but within 20 mintes we've got our bags, Tinga herds us out to the bus, and we're off. There are 18 of us. There are 9 suites so we fit exactly. It's about 80 KM and takes about 90 minutes. From Kruger Gate is another 20 Km to Tinga Lodge and that takes another 30 minutes.

But our safari starts as soon as we cross the Sabie river. Just as we cross, looking to the left and right, are our first views of hippopotamuses and elephants. We pass another group on their Range Rover enroute to Tinga, and shortly we're there.

It's now 3:30. A short break while they unload the bus and explain to us all how the reception area, bars (2), dining area, pool, lounge, and assorted other public areas are organized, and we are given our assigned suites and the Range Rover groupings we are assigned to. The lodge is spectacular, open air lobby with African art and luxurious seating and tables. Talk about 5 star accommodations!

Then brief snacks before our guides escort us to our suites. We are in 102, the next to farthest from the main lodge, and we walk on a raised wooden boardwalk style path to it. It's great since you are truly in the busg.

Calling the acomodations suites is probably right, but it is beyond that. The deck extends around the entire suite and faces the Sabie River. No one from any other suite, nor any of the walkways that connect them, can see you. The deck area has its own private pool. If the water is too cool you can call them prior to going on your morning safari ride and they will heat the pool. The deck also has two lounge chairs, a covered portico, and a table and chairs. This is the most luxurious place we have ever been and to top it off, the staff is wonderful, there for your every need.

As if to cement our welcome to Kruger there was a giraffe grazing just across the river from us. All the suites face the river and at any time animals will come to eat or drink.

Inside is a living room with wide-screen TV, lage sofa, large credenza/desk, leather arm chair and coffee maker. Also, just in case you did not bring the right plus convertor they have along the wall American, British and South African plus points.

Next is the bedroom, not a separate area, but just the next area. However, the bed is a huge King (about the size of 2 standard beds actually) covered with a linen netting drape that surrounds the bed, and on the other side an armoire, and luggage storage, and general space.

Then comes the bathroom, which has separate toilet, dual sinks, and a very large tub. Overall this room is about 100 squaree feet.

Off the bathroom is the shower, a circular one entered thru a short hall with a diameter of about ten feet and circular windows that can be opened to the bush. It looks out onto the river as well.

So, we dropped all our luggage (our room looked like a cyclone hit it), changed to safari gear, and went back to the main lodge. A brief snack awaited us and at 4pm we loaded onto our Rovers and were off.

Each Range Rover holds six people. Seating is stadium style, so no one had anyone blocking their view.

It didn't take long on the drive before we had seen elephants, Nyala (an antelope), Impala all over the place, and, which we will see more of tomorrow, tons of dung. The most prevalent stuff in Kruger is dung of all shapes and sizes, and Acacia trees.

But, the highlight of the drive was the lions. We are driving along and our tracker/spotter sees them lying down in the bush. The driver pulls off the road, shifts the Rover forward and back, trampling brush, scraping against the Acacia trees and their long (2"), and sharp thorns, just to move us maybe five feet away from three resting lions. He knows them and tells us they are brothers.

The lions roll over with their feet in the air, or they lift their heads to look at us.

By the way, we are warned not to stand up because while seated we appear as a giant thing, too big for the lions to think about as curiosities or prey. But, once we stand, or worse, stick heads or hands out of the space of the Rover, then the lions can see us as individuals. This is why the Impala and other lion prey stay in herds, to not stand out as individuals.

At one point one of the lions gets up, and you then see just how big he is, and he yawns, to show you what a big mouth and teeth he has. This goes on for 20 minutes while the driver calls the other Rovers to let them know of his find.

Our Spotter and Tracker is Amone, our driver is Raymond. And a while later we pull over in a clearing and they set up a small buffet on the forward hood area.

They lay out, bottles of wine, beer and liquor, trays of hors d'oerves, including egg rolls with meat, cakes, 'biltong' a sort of jerky, sweet potato chips, and macadamia nuts, and we spend a pleasant half hour or so drinking wine and talking about the day so far as well as getting more education on life in Kruger.

We then started up again as it was starting to get darker, but not cold. As we drove, all the while on dirt roads on Tinga's private reserve, it got dark enough for Amone to start using the spotlight.

As we drive it appears there's a blackness blocking the road ahead, and as we get closer we find a herd of Cape Buffalo standing in the road. So we watched them and after a while inched forward and they began to drift off to one side so we could pass.

We got back to the lodge at 8 after our first game drive, about four hours. Time enough to drop our stuff, use the facilities in the main lodge, and have a pre-dinner cocktail.

Then it's dinner time. Three tables of six, wicker cushioned chairs, mostly candle light with some low spots, under the covered porch area. The menu has two choices for first courses, a butternut squash and scallion soup and roasted calamari. The main course had three choices including a beef sirloin filet, roasted duck breast and a Kingklip filet, a fish), all with various accompaniments. Dessert was a choice of a Ginger pudding with caramel sauce and strawberries, or a cheese plate. With all this was your choice of wines and liquors, etc.

At 9:30 dinner was over with some retiring to the bar, and others, like us, deciding to call it a day.

Back at the room we unpacked and got to bed about 10:30.

Here's how the days will go. Wakeup phone call at 5:30. Coffee, juices and small food until 6:00. Then the first game drive of the day from 6:00 to 9:00. Breakfast is at 9:30. After breakfast is "free time". Lunch 12:30 to 14:00. Afternoon tea at 15:30. The second game drive is from 16:00 to 19:00. Dinner at 19:30. Sleep time is at your option, just remember you will be awakened at 5:30 the next morning.

Repeat the above schedule every day. On the day we depart we leave for the airport after breakfast.